Tales from the Market Part 1: From Farm to Fork

There is a phrase that has been circulating in the food circles for a while now.  It is popular with chefs, trendy restaurants and even foodies.  You may have heard it before.  That phrase is "from farm to fork".  The first time I heard it was back in 2008 when the chef I worked for assigned me to the gourmet salad station.  But what does this phrase mean?  It is quite elegant in its simplicity.  The phrase simply reflects that the food one consumes goes directly from the farm where it was produced/grown/harvested to the plate of the person eating it with little to no go betweens.  This is a nice idea in theory, in practice it is much harder to achieve.  What I mean to say is that not many people (including chefs) have a direct line to farm to get the food they want.  A good way to get that connection is via a local farmer's market.  At a good quality farmer's market you will find a variety of vendors that can satisfy your need for a local connection to your food.

Last week I had the pleasure and privilege of being taken to the Rice University Farmer's Market by Rice Dining where I had the opportunity to speak and interact with several vendors there.   This was not my first time here, but this was my first time to really explore and see just what the market had to offer.  One of the first vendors we talked to was Chef Chandler Rothbard from Animal Farm Center.  We chatted about what produce he had brought with him as well as what Animal Farm was all about.  I, along with other chefs from work, were able to procure some choice produce. We got some beautiful watermelon radishes as well as some edible flowers.  I personally got some Swiss chard, green onions and some cremini mushrooms. 

From left to right: Watermelon Radishes, Romanesco, Broccoli, Cremini Mushrooms.

 

Me with Chef Chandler and our haul.

Right next to the Animal Farm stand was one from Shiner Pork and Beef.  I decided to see what they had to offer and maybe pick something up.  At first I wanted some delicious pork belly, but all that they had brought was already accounted for.  I tried bacon next, but it was the same situation.  Fortunately they did have some ground pork for sale, so I snatched up a package.

Cooler for of deliciousness.

Ground pork I was able to get.

I spoke to several other vendors including Patrick Bierschwale from Katerra Exotics, Jim from Jim's World of Worms and someone from Angela's Oven.  They were all very pleasant and very knowlegable about their particular products.  Patrick informed me of how they raise their animals, the bison in particular.  Jim provides sprouts for several of the chefs on campus and I learn about the sprouts themselves.  During my time at the farmer's market I also tried kombucha for the first time from 3rd Coast Kombucha  and even had a delicious lavender lemonade from Ripe Cuisine.

Bread from Angela's Oven

Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when visiting a farmer's market.  You can't go to one with a super market or recipe mentality.  What I mean by that is that farmer's markets don't have a specific set of things that will always be for sale that day.  The thing they sell are often seasonal and dependent on many other factors.  So if you are looking for something very specific there might be a chance it is unavailable.  Keep an open mind and maintain flexibility.  It is better if you let the market dictate what you want to purchase and therefore, what you want to create.

Next, take advantage of the people selling you their wares.  More often than not they had a direct hand in growing, making, cultivating what is in front of you.  Don't be shy and ask questions.  They probably relish the opportunity to talk to someone about what they have.  Be adventurous and try new things.  If you don't know what something is or what to do with it, don't hesitate to ask.  This ties back into my previous point.  Don't be afraid of stepping out of your comfort zone.

Lastly, be prepared to spend a little money.  I will say this, as awesome as farmer's markets are, they are not cheap.  Most of the vendors don't have the luxury of mass producing what they are selling.  That means they have quality premium stuff, but it also means you have to pay a little more than what you might normally be accustomed to.  While a farmer's market might not be an every week shopping trip for everyone, the every once in a while splurge is totally worth it. Houston has several markets throughout the city.  Go out there and experience one.   After all its the only real way to experience the "farm to fork"!

The Incredible Eddible Egg..plant

Common Eggplant

I used to think that I was not a big fan of eggplant.  I used to think that I did not like the taste and that eggplant was one of those vegetables that only vegetarians and hippies ate.  Like most things I did not like to eat it was only I had never experienced them prepared well.  It was not until I shared a meal at a Chinese restaurant that I experienced eggplant in a way that I not only liked, but loved.  The dish was simply Japanese eggplant stir-fried with the "chef's special sauce".  I tried the dish if only for curiosity sake and my life has not been the same since.  While the sauce of the dish was a large portion, I fell in love with eggplant itself.  It was soft and almost creamy with an earthy flavor to it and non of the bitterness that I usually thought accompanied eggplant.

So what exactly is an eggplant?  The eggplant, also known as an aubergine, is a fruit (technically a berry) that is consumed like a vegetable that comes from a plant originating in India.  The eggplant has been known to Asia for over two millennia and been cultivated in China since 500 B.C.  Arabs and Persians introduced it to Africa before the middle ages and it was from there that the eggplant was brought to Italy around the 14th century.  The first varieties of eggplant were so bitter that Europeans initially thought it caused insanity and kept it mainly for its ornamental purposes.  Only after years of cultivation and selective breeding has the eggplant improved in flavor.

Japanese, white and common Western Eggplants

 

There are multiple varieties of eggplants.

There are many different varieties of eggplant with Asian and western being the most commonly available.  Asian varieties are either long and thin or round with skin colors ranging from creamy white to deep purple.  Western eggplants, the more common one in the US, are shaped like a like a big pear with shiny lavender to purple-black skin.  The eggplant grows on a three foot high plant that bears purple-blue flowers.  The yellowish flesh of the eggplant is dense and spongy with a bland flavor that absorbs other flavors well.  Eggplants contain small brown seeds that are edible. The skin is also edible, but can be quite bitter in certain varieties.  Younger and smaller eggplants have less seeds and tend to have skin that is more tender and less bitter.

Eggplant flower

In order to choose a good eggplant look for one that is plump, firm, and heavy. It should be free of blemishes with smooth shiny skin.  Fruits with wrinkled or spotted skin are likely to be old and bitter tasting.  Press the skin lightly to check for ripeness.  If the imprint remains, then the fruit is ready.  Asian eggplants tend to softer than western ones.  Eggplants are available all year long, but their peak season is during the late summer. 

Now that you know what an eggplant is and how to pick one, what do you do with it?  Eggplants are wonderfully versatile and lend themselves to all manner of dishes and cooking methods.  Eggplant can be grilled, baked,stuffed, au gratin, purred, steamed, fried, or sauteed.  It is delicious hot or cold and makes a wonderful addition to any dish or serve as the main ingredient.  Eggplant plays a pivotal role in Asian and Mediterranean cuisines where it is often paired with tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil.  Some of the more commonly known eggplant dishes are moussaka, ratatouille, baba ganoush and eggplant Parmesan.

Eggplant Hors D'oeuvres

Stuffed Eggplant

Whole Eggplant Being Grilled

Moussaka

Roasted Eggplant

When preparing your eggplant is is important to keep in mind that the flesh of the fruit quickly discolors when cut.  Cooking it soon after it is cut or sprinkling it with lemon juice will help avoid that.  If the eggplant is large sprinkling the pieces  with salt and letting it sit for at least thirty minutes will help draw out some of the moisture from it as well as some of the bitterness.  This process also helps to keep the eggplant from absorbing too much oil during the cooking process.  Soaking the fruit in water will also draw out some of the bitterness as well as peeling it since most of the bitterness is concentrated just under the skin. 

Sliced Eggplant Being "Salted"

Eggplant bruises easily so it should be handled carefully.  It is also sensitive to temperature fluctuations.  Fresh eggplants should be stored in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for about a week.

Hopefully this post inspires someone who has not had or has not prepared eggplant to get adventurous with this versatile fruit/vegetable.  Not only is it delicious, it is good for you.  So get out there and try the incredible, edible, eggplant!

A lot to be thankful for

Today is one of the great culinary holidays.  People spend time with friends and family and shove copious amounts of food down their collective gullets.  While that is all fine and good, it is also important to keep in mind what we are all thankful for.   This world that we live in is such a dichotomous place filled with both wonderfully beautiful and horrific things.  Every time I am ready to write off humanity as a lost cause I see something in the news or via social media that helps restore my faith in it.  So I just wanted to remind everyone that while you are enjoying your food and football remember what you are truly grateful of. 

I am personally grateful of my family, my friends (many whom I consider extended family), my health, my job and the fact that I can enjoy such things without too much worry.  I wish everyone could enjoy these things that most of us often take for granted. I will also say that we should try to be thankful of these things for longer than just the one day we are reminded to do so.  It is certainly difficult, but it is something that is worth doing. 

Fall Flavors More Than Just Pumpkin Spice

We are right in the thick of the fall and with the season's biggest holiday right around the corner.  So I am sure by now everyone has had their fill of pumpkin spice.  It began simply enough with the now infamous pumpkin spice latte from Starbucks.  But has really gotten out of hand now. I've seen pumpkin spice hand soap for goodness sake!  Enough is enough.  The really sad thing about it is that fall has so much more to offer than just pumpkin and pumpkin spice.  Don't get me wrong, I like a slice of pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving and all, but I just want people to realize there is so much more out there than that.

With the pumpkin dominating the scene now we have forgotten about an important staple of the fall food entourage.  I'm talking about the apple.  With over 7,500 varieties known to exist the noble apple is as versatile a fruit as they come.  They can be eaten raw, cooked, dried or candied. They can be made into jelly, jam, butter, sauce or marmalade.  Certain varieties of apples are prefect for pies, cakes, muffins and other desserts.  They are also made into beverages such as juice and alcoholic and non alcoholic cider.  Although the apple is traditionally in season during the fall, a diversification of sources as well as modern technology have made apples available all year long.  So don't overlook the apple this fall.  Doing so would be un-American.

Next on my list of fall flavors is mushrooms.  Although mushrooms are available all year long, many of the more exotic varieties are at their peak in fall and winter.  Mushrooms can be purchased fresh, dried, canned or frozen.  They are usually sold whole or sliced.  Fresh mushrooms should be cleaned before being consumed as they are grown in dirt.  In order to clean mushrooms it is best to rinse them clean and then immediately use them.  Mushrooms can be prepared with just about any cooking method. Mushrooms are a perfect addition to a variety of dishes.  They go well with meat, poultry, fish, and shellfish. 

Another classic fall flavor that has been relegated to the background or is just an afterthought at your Thanksgiving meal is the cranberry.  Because of their high acidity, cranberries are rarely eaten raw.  They are best when cooked and incorporated into dishes or made into sauces or juices.  Cranberries are great for the bakery, often made into muffins, pies and cobblers.  Cranberries work well when paired with other fruit that is less tart.  Cranberries also work well paired with meat, especially poultry and pork,

Dark leafy greens are also on my list of foods available in the fall.  Things like kale, greens are chard are grown in warmer climates during the colder months of the year.  These vegetables are great for a variety of different uses and packed with all sorts of nutrients and vitamins.  I go into more detail in an article I have written earlier.

Although they are sometimes the stuff of children's culinary nightmares, Brussels sprouts can be quite tasty if prepared the right way.  These sprouts are in the peak of their season from September through February.  Brussels sprouts, unlike other members of the cabbage family are only eaten cooked.  That being said, Brussels sprouts lend themselves well to a myriad of cooking methods, including frying, sauteing, roasted, or even steamed.  Brussels sprouts are best when cooked in some kind of fat (especially bacon) and paired with something sweet to counter the their bitterness.

Although these tubers are available all year long, they are best in the fall when the fresh crop comes in.  Sweet potatoes (even if they are not really a potato) are great because of their versatility.  They work well for both savory and sweet dishes.  They can be just another ingredient or be the star of the show.  Sweet potatoes can and are cooked exactly like their non sweet counterparts.  They can be boiled, baked, fried, steamed or sauteed.

Next on the list is a fruit most people would not have thought about.  The pomegranate is one of the world's oldest fruits.  Its peak season is from October to January so it is important to take advantage while they are available.   If it is not the seed of the pomegranate that is being eaten, then it is the juice of the fruit.  The seeds are usually eaten raw are are a way to add color and sweetness to everything from  salads, soups, sauces, fruit, vegetables, cheeses, poultry, to fish and seafood.

We have our neighbors to the north to thank for our next fall flavor. Maple syrup is basically just the sap of certain species of maple trees that has been reduced down and purified.  The sap is collected at the end of winter, between January and April, when the days are warm enough to melt snow, but the nights are cold enough to keep the trees from budding.  Maple syrup's most iconic use is over pancakes.  However it can be used as a replacement sweetener for sugar or as a flavoring.  Maple syrup's uses are  not limited to only desserts and other sweet applications.  Maple syrup can be an additive or flavoring for certain savory dishes and it pairs well with pork and poultry.

While pumpkin receives the majority of the attention this season it is important to not forget that there are other gorgeous gourds out there worthy of our attention.  Collectively known as winter squashes, this group includes butternut, acorn, kabocha, delicata as well as other varieties.  Winter squash hit the markets around late September and stick around through early March, although they are at their prime during fall and winter.  Winter squash needs to cooked before being eaten and has tough outer skins that are inedible.  Winter squash can be roasted, sauteed, steamed, or boiled. Squashes are excellent for making soup.  Another squash I want to include is the spaghetti squash.  It is technically not a winter squash, but it is in season during the fall and winter.  Spaghetti squash gets its name from the fact that its flesh can be separated into spaghetti like strands after it is cooked.  Spaghetti squash is best baked until tender.  The separated flesh can than be seasoned and served as is, or it can be further cooked by sauteing it.

I would be remiss if I did not at least bring up spices.  I know the general premise of this post is about not falling into the trap of believing that fall is all bout pumpkin spice.  But that does not mean we can abandon all the spices from fall.  Most of our favorite foods would "fall" flat without them.  So indeed, fall is much more than pumpkin spice which is really just a combination of nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and ginger in a 2:1:1:1:1 ratio. These spices can be cast into such larger roles.  They should not just be pigeon holed into being only for pumpkin pies or pumpkin flavored foods.  Spices seem like such a generic fall flavor, but spiced drinks and foods are comforting and warming. And sugar doesn’t always have to accompany the spice.  These spices work just as well with savory sides and main dishes.  So just because you are over the whole pumpkin spice trend, don't give up in these spices altogether.
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There are so many more fall flavors that I could write about.  In fact I am sure there are entire books and cookbooks dedicated to the subject.  The point of this post was just to get people to realize that fall has such a great potential for delicious food when you get past the pumpkin spice and  especially when you start combining some of these fabulous fall flavors!

Sweet & Spicy Summer Slushy

We right smack in the middle of summer and in case you have not noticed or been away at Antarctica, IT IS HOT!  One of my favorite ways to cool off and have a delicious and healthy snack is to make myself a sweet and spicy slushy.  What I love about this recipe is that it is highly customizable.  If you don't like any aspect of it (such as the fruit used, or the spicy seasoning) you can omit or change it!  Here are some of the things you will need:

FRUIT!!  Pretty much any fruit you enjoy can work for this.  You can mix and match as you like.  For this version I used fresh peaches, blueberries and strawberries.  Another popular mix I like to use is oranges, pineapple and mango.  If you don't want to bother with fresh fruit or it is not in season you can always use frozen fruit.

You will also need to use some kind of liquid to help make your slushy, well, slushy.  I like to use juice that compliments the fruit.  In this case I used a blueberry pomegranate acia.  If juice is unavailable, plain water is always an option.  Just keep in mind it will not add an extra flavor. 

For the seasoning I love to use just a bit of sweetener (I use Splenda to avoid added sugar) and a combination of the salty spicy condiments called chamoy and Tajin.  These last two are completely optional if those flavors are not your thing.  The sweetener helps bring out the flavor of the fruit.

As far as hardware goes, you will need a blender, a long spoon, and several glasses to pour your slushy into.

So, to review, here is what you need to make your slushy:

approx, 2 cups of fruit fresh or frozen.
1- 1 1/2 cups of liquid
1-2 tbsp sweetener
1-2 tbsp each of Tajin and chamoy
1-1 1/2 cups of ice

These ratios are not set in stone.  You can play around with them to your own personal tastes.  If you want a sweeter slushy, then add more sweetener. If the idea of adding the Tajin or chamoy does not suit your tastes, then you can leave it out.  The point of this is to find your slushy flavor profile.  These are just guidelines. 

The first step to make your slushy is to put your fruit in the blender.  I like to add it first because it it soft and will blend well at the bottom vs the hard frozen ice.  If you are using frozen fruit, I would use less ice and perhaps a little more liquid.  It is also a good idea to cut the larger fruit into smaller pieces as they will blend better.

Next add your sweetener as well as the Tajin and chamoy.

After that add the liquid as well as the ice.

Now just blend away!

Make sure to check the consistency of your slushy.  The long spoon serves this purpose as well as giving you a way to taste test your concoction.  If the slushy is too stiff and hard add more liquid.  If it is too loose, add more ice.

The last step is my favorite.  After you have gotten your slushy how you want it, serve and enjoy!

Lastly I will leave you with some suggestions for variations on this simple treat.  My personal favorite is using the Dole frozen tropical fruit blend with orange juice as my liquid.  Berry blends also work really well together.  Lastly, I have found that for the more adult readers out there, this is a great way to make a delicious frozen sangria.  Just use your favorite bottled sangria with maybe a little bit of orange juice and whatever fruit you would normally enjoy with said sangria.  Give it a whirl in the blender and there you go!

July Fourth: What Would George Washington Eat?

Tomorrow people around the country will celebrating the anniversary of the USA's birth as a country.  In today's culinary tradition many of these good folks will fire up their grills and cook up the grilling season's standards such as burgers or hot dogs.  For the more "adventurous" types some chicken or even sausages might find their way onto the grill.  I myself will be cooking up some tasty fajitas.  But have you ever stopped to consider what food was consumed during the pre-colonial and post independence United States?  The stuff they ate was very different than the out door feasts we have now.

Food back then was quite varied.  Just like now region played a part in what you were eating.  However, there were some common threads throughout the colonies and subsequent young country.  To start off with meat was used to supplement meals than as a main feature.  Meat was either expensive or had to be hunted.  Large cuts of meat in were usually reserved for special occasions and large parties.  Some of the most common meats came from wild game such as venison or other small woodland creatures. One affect of the revolutionary war was that cattle raising had begun on a small scale during the French-Indian War, but when the American Revolution came, farmers were able to increase their cattle holdings and increase the presence of beef in the American diet. Turkey was a plentiful and popular mainstay in colonial America. It was a free and easy source of food for the colonials since they roamed wild in the forests. It was so beloved by Benjamin Franklin that he wanted to make it a national symbol! 

Seafood was another popular source of protein.  Given the access to bodies of water, both fresh and saltwater, it is easy to see how seafood of all types was enjoyed.  One of the most popular items was oysters.  They were so plentiful that some streets were paved in oyster shells.  Martha Washington's cookbook included multiple recipes for oysters.  Trout and salmon were other mainstays of the colonial culinary palate.  Fish was abundant and could be obtained from the rivers and oceans found in the country.  Fishing in areas used for salt water fishing became dangerous during the war. That coupled with the fact that many of the boats used to fish were put towards the war effort caused these areas to be unused.  Before the war, there was often talk about the excess of lobsters and cod off the shores of New England. However after the war most fishermen found that they had migrated away from these areas.  Even with all these problems seafood stayed as a staple of the new United States' diet.

Farming in the colonies varied by region.  The middle colonies were known as the breadbasket colonies since they grew mainly grains such as wheat, barley, oats, rye, and corn.  They also raised crops such as pumpkins, squash, and beans.  In the south they developed large plantations exporting corn, vegetables, grains, fruit, and livestock to the other colonies for food.  The  northern colonies produced number of vegetables were grown in the northern colonies, including turnips, onions, cabbage, carrots, and parsnips, along with pulses and legumes. These vegetables stored well through the colder months. Farming in New England for crops like wheat was impractical due to the poor soil. One of the most popular vegetables grown was green beans since it was also one of the easiest and sturdiest to grow.  Thomas Jefferson mentions growing them several times in his "Garden Book".  What is curious is that even with all these crops, colonial Americans did not enjoy eating raw veggies.  They preferred them boiled.

Fruits were also common amongst the colonials.  Especially popular were apples and cherries.  Apples were plentiful and grew in most regions.  Both George Washington and Thomas Jefferson cultivated cherry tree orchards. Fruits were grown seasonally so in order to eat these fruits out of season they were preserved as jams, sweetmeats, or just dried.  

Desserts were an important part of any colonial meal.  They gave an extra bit of calories in the form of sugar and fat.  One popular dessert was fruit pies.  Not only were pies a dessert, but they also were a manner of preserving fruits.  Another common dessert was the pound cake. Nearly every cookbook in colonial America had a recipe for pound cake. It was a simple and long-lasting cake, which made it a great option for dessert.

As far as drink options went in colonial America, there were quite a few.  The one thing missing was plain water as it was often times considered unsafe to drink.  Instead colonial Americans enjoyed things such as coffee, tea, rum, whiskey, cider and beer.  Hard apple cider was the most readily available and cheapest option.  It was easier to make than anything else and was often produced locally.  A farmer could even produce it for his own consumption.  Beer, however, was also quite popular.  Beer was such an important consumable to Americans that they would closely watch the stocks of barley held by farmers to ensure quality beer production. John Adams in letters to his wife Abigail asks about the barley crops to ensure enough for the production of beer.  Even George Washington was known to brew his own beer.  Hops, essential to production of beer, did not grow well in the colonies. It only grew wild in the New World, and needed to be imported from England and elsewhere. Even children drank small beer.

There you have it.  A small sampling of what may have been eaten during that very first Fourth of July! Its a far cry from the backyard cuisine of today. Maybe next year I will have roasted turkey with boiled green beans, a nice pint of beer and a slice of cherry pie.  On second thought, maybe not!

What is Cinco de Mayo really?

 So today is May fifth... So what?  To a lot of people it is an excuse to have a good time, throw a "fiesta" and imbibe some margaritas.  However I am willing to bet that most people don't know, don't care, or are misinformed about significance of this day.  It is NOT Mexico's independence day.  That falls on September 16th.  Cinco de Mayo (known as El Día de la Batalla de Puebla in Mexico)  is the celebration of the Mexican army unlikely victory over the army of France in the Battle of Puebla.  The funny thing about this holiday is that it is not really a major holiday in Mexico.  It is really just a regional holiday celebrated primarily in the state of Puebla.  You are probably asking yourself why is this history lesson in a food blog.  Well, I figured that since Cinco de Mayo is really about Puebla, why don't we get to know some of the wonderful cuisine from this great state in Mexico.


The most famous dish coming out of the state of Puebla is mole Poblano.  As I have discussed in a previous entry, there is a wide variety of mole sauces in Mexico.  However, mole Poblano is the one that is most distinguished and well known.  It is the prototypical mole sauce everyone imagines when thinking of mole.  This mole typically has a rust red to dark brown color with well over twenty ingredients including several types of peppers, peanuts and most notably chocolate.

Another typical dish of Puebla is the Chiles en Nogada.  This dish consists of a poplano pepper stuffed with meat (picadillo) much like a typical chile relleno.  However, instead of being topped with tomato sauce after being battered and fried, the stuffed poblano is topped with a white walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds.  The green chile, white sauce, and red seeds give reference to the colors of the Mexican flag.  Even though Chiles en Nogada was born in Puebla this dish has been adopted as a source of national pride.

Mexico is filled with small dishes called antojitos.  Puebla is most well know for its chalupas and molotes.  A chalupa is made by pressing a thin layer of masa dough around the outside of a small mold, in the process creating a concave container resembling the boat of the same name. They are  then deep fried to produce crisp, shallow cup which is then filled with a variety of ingredients.

Molotes are small masa based stuffed antojitos slightly resembling a small empanada.  Molotes are filled with basic ingredients such as meat or potatoes to more exotic ingredients such as corn fungus or squash flowers. 

Puebla is also well known for its sweets.  The most well know candy coming from Puebla is the Camote Poblano or sweet potato candy. These candies are made with pureed sweet potatoes mixed with sugar and a variety of flavorings. They are hand-rolled and wrapped in wax paper. Dulces de camote also date back to the colonial period in Puebla.

Another great candy is know as jamoncillo.  This candy comes in different varieties depending on what part of the country you are in.  However in Puebla the jamoncillo is referred to a candy made with pumpkin seed paste and usually comes in a bar form with a red stripe.

And what would a good Cinco de Mayo celebration be without libations?  Puebla has some great offerings in that department at well.  First off is the classic nevado which is most like a margarita.  A nevado is frozen cocktail comprised of fruit juice and a little liquor.

Another drink native to Puebla would be the acachul.  This drink is derived by fermenting local wild chapulin cherries.

So now that you know a little more about the history of Cinco de Mayo, do yourself a favor.  Instead of just eating the typical fare of guacamole, enchiladas and margaritas, go and find some excellent cuisine from the state of Puebla!